…then try again!!

Chamba and the River Ravi

After the early snowfall in the Lahaul Valley we decided to head further West from Manali and over to the Chamba Valley.  The journey was an eye opener in itself, the green Himalayan foothills provide some stunning scenery but it is the endless valleys and ridges you have to go in and out, up and over with the faint chance to getting some tarmac to sooth the body!

As we approached the last pass of the day, we took a lunch break to find this sign close to the restaurant.  It made us laugh….

A vegetarian Thali is such a wonderful lunch, especially when you are on the road!  This dhaba (restaurant) had a great set up.

We arrived in Chamba and found a stereotypical HPTC accommodation on the edge of town.  The next day saw us head up the Chamba valley in search of whitewater.  

The road was pretty sketchy in a few parts and of course the buses of Himachal do not take any prisoners when it comes to getting in their path!

We headed a fair way up the valley and it was soon becoming apparent that the dam companies had really got hold of the Chamba Valley and have raped it of its water. They have diverted everything through tunnels in the mountainside.  This may sound good to some people but for the locals this could really be the start of something quite sad and also terrifying!  We have seen first hand what the same system of dams has done to the Kinnaur Valley where whole mountainsides have slid forcing roads to be built high into the mountains and villagers wondering whether their homes will be next to disappear!

We finally found some whitewater to run, well we thought we did but we had to wait for one of the dams to open for us to finally get some action!  It felt as though we were waiting for hours for the dam to open up and the river to start to rise.  Everyone passing bye was asking whether we had permission and who was allowing us to kayak the river!

Finally the river started to rise and within 40 minutes we were kayaking the River Ravi and encountered some sweet whitewater.  The Ravi itself has good volume and you definitely have the feel you are on a Himalayan River.

Some pushy, long rapids with classic BIG holes that you wanted to avoid.  The top part of the section was steep and in the town of Chamba itself came the crux rapid.  The longer you took to scout the line the more people started to stop whatever they were doing and watch the live action down on the river!!

I do not think Ute has paddled with such a big audience before but she styled the rapid.  The cheers were coming from pretty much everywhere, from the bridge, peoples houses and of course down by the riverside!

After letting a few locals have a try at kayaking in a huge eddy at the bottom of the main rapid we continued on down. 

The rapids were now getting bigger but the pools were also getting longer so we could easily get our breath back, especially when I dropped Ute into a hole that I was getting worked in!  Luckily my boat put Ute onto the perfect line and pushed her out of the hole, then after a few more cartwheels I popped out, rolled up and we paddled on!

There were still a few more rapids left before the river flowed into the huge lake caused by the biggest dam on the river below Chamba.  The water was a fantastic colour and the sun was shining, what could be better!?

At the take-out, Vipin was waiting for us with the engine running just incase we had any problems but no-one seemed to care!  The Police were not around and the locals just look at you in bewilderment that you would actually want to go voluntarily into the river!!!

We had to take a photo of the signs that are in the Chamba Valley.  Luckily we were not punished but actually rewarded with a great day section of whitewater in the far West of Himachal Pradesh.

The journey back to Manali did not disappoint and it was a highlight to go back to Chamba after our first visit years ago on an Enfield Bullet.  That time we came over from Lahaul via the Saj Pass, I am glad we were heading towards Dharamsala staying in the warmth of the Himalayan foothills and lets not forget the views - absolutely stunning is all I can say!